books tagged posts

‘Can’t I just say it’s tasty?’ Why food critics go too far

Its easy to write beautifully if you can work yourself into a frenzy of love or loathing. Unfortunately, most meals are just quite pleasant

I was a restaurant reviewer for 10 years, and then I was let go, as they say. I expected to be distraught because I would miss the money, and also the food. Instead, it was an incredible relief. Reviewing food is fine when you hate a lot of things; it is fine when you stand ready and willing to do an elaborate and caustic hit job on an orange sorbet because you have been either absolutely loving or completely hating relatively benign things since you could talk. It is fine when you have quite a dedicated moral architecture of taste, when you admire good food so much that you can summon real dismay at even its very slight inferior...

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Getting odd in the kitchen with the ‘Bob’s Burgers’ cookbook

When I first started Bobs Burgersthe animated Fox comedy about a weird and loving family who owned a struggling burger restaurant at the Jersey shorea couple of years ago, I had a couple of thoughts. One, it was consistently funnier than I ever expected it to be. Two, I wanted one of those crazy Burgers of the Day.

Rarely shown but always named (except for that one episode where they temporarily disappeared), the Burger of the Day is one of the shows running gags. The nameswhich are almost always food punsappear on the chalkboard hanging near the cash register in every episode just like the revolving owners of the building next to Bobs Burgers and the rat vans in the opening sequence. The burger names are punchy, cheesy, the puns have the right amount of dad-level humor, and they can get...

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